A continuing journey from Tarifa to the Pyrenees.

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Gorges and canyons - Benagéber to Chelva.

The pharmacy in Benagéber doesn't open on Wednesday. The barman kindly gave us some bandages and plaster and we attempted to fix up my chum's feet. But they were red and suppurating (I was going to put a picture of them on the blog but decided there's enough horror on the Internet already) and it was pretty obvious that he wouldn't be able to walk more than a few yards without breaking down altogether.
So I reluctantly made the decision to leave him to his fate, while I set out alone.
By this time the weather had cleared up and the walk through open forest country was fresh and invigorating.
Before long I had dropped down to a small or rather tiny village Barchel, where a man was sorting out firewood. I couldn't see any way into or out of the village apart from the track I'd come down. One of the men pointed out the continuation of the path, and immediately on taking it I was scrambling down a narrow path, over a tree trunk serving as a bridge over the stream
and under overhanging cliffs. The view out over the gorge was vertiginous, six hundred feet or more straight down with the sound of rushing water far below.
I crept down gingerly till I reached s road and the river turia. Crossed a suspension bridge and started climbing up the other side of the gorge.
After the climb a longish slog along forestry tracks to the outskirts of chelva. Another tremendous gorge with a restored Roman bridge,
past orchards bordered by agave plants, a conversation with a shepherd and then up to Chelva through old streets with the sound of running water underneath.

My friend meanwhile had taken a free bus from Benageber to Tejuar which agreed to take him on to Chelva. His suppurating heels were fixed up for free at the local health centre!
Down through town after a rest for beer and  hopeful tapas. No tapas but unusual church facade. 
To bar Angelines where atletico were playing real Madrid.
Pinchos morunos, patatas bravas, croquetas and ill-advised embutidos for supper washed down with beer. What could be better? We'll see how the heels are tomorrow.

2 Comments:

  • Have been reading your blog but this is the first chance I've had to comment. The blog ( and the walk!) seems much more dramatic than on your previous trips - wire rope ascents, 600 metre drops into gorges, log bridges, rope bridges - it's a far cry from walking through olive groves for days as I remember happened on one of your earlier excursions. And the photos are great, though some of the activities look terrifying! Another difference from the last time is that you seem to be finding places to eat, which has to be a plus, though I'm staggered at the stupidity of two grown men going hungry on day 1 rather than forking out 6 euros for a sandwich!

    By Anonymous Anne-Marie, at 10:45 am  

  • I am bringing sandwich money just in case.

    By Blogger Unknown, at 2:14 pm  

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